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Better … January 14, 2010

Posted by Elfi in Climbing.
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Whenever I do not train and climb for about two weeks I feel like all my strength is gone and it will take weeks to get it back. This feels even more true when I am literally, all day long, forced to sit in a sofa, eat and chat with my family, e.g. during Christmas holidays. Chatting is fine, but sofa leads to back pain in fast downward spirals in my case.

Luckily, things are always better than they seem. I arrived back to Sweden with only +1kg of body weight, which I guess is fine during these cold days, and in order to get rid of back pain I stretched for five days in a row, did some biking and running. Over the top of that I had two bouldering sessions in Klätterfabriken which made me happy.

A must rule during these forced off-days is to never allow thoughts along the lines of “After this, I will have to start almost from scratch. Damn it“. It is just not truth and thinking so will give rise to a plateau in your development. Instead, think how to make your first few training sessions nothing but a well motivated fun. Your body and consequently your mind, which are one thing after all, will respond correspondingly. That is well 🙂

In a few days I am going to set goals and prepare a plan for my climbing and training. I am equipped with The self-coached climber and Dave’s 9 out of 10 and there are many advices to explore and try out. The plan is likely going to cover 2-3 months with focus on (single hand) pull-up strength, transversus abdominis muscle and foot work.

I am the kind of guy who prefer to improve in climbing mostly by climbing and I do perform climbing specific training only in order to compensate for not being able to climb every day. What I want add now is more structure, checkpoints and regular antagonist muscle exercises.

Cheers to everyone,

and hats off to Will Gadd for his Endless Ascent. Seeing him determinedly ice climbing through night with his headlamp on sticked to my memory. Awesomely inspiring.

Climbing on Kalymnos November 4, 2009

Posted by Elfi in Books, Climbing, Travelling.
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It was great 10 days at Kalymnos, Greece. Me and Hanka had so much fun. I managed to enter the grade 7a with a couple of on-sights at this level (including wished DNA) and Hanka earned the title ‘Blu Swiss Baby Ekavi The Monohiki Hatrefa, Resista‘ resembling the names of routes she successfully or nearly successfully leaded. It was a big step for her since she mostly did top rope in the past.

Happy after climbing DNA 7a, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos. October 2009.

dsc06883Photo: Hana Trefná

Hanka climbing Harakiri 6b, Spartacus, Kalymnos. October 2009.

dsc06964Photo: Unknown climber, thanks!

Climbing Ivi 7a+, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos. October 2009.

dsc06973Photo: Unknown climber, thanks!

Climbing Ivi 7a+, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos. October 2009.

dsc06976Photo: Unknown climber, thanks!

Climbing Ivi 7a+, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos. October 2009.

dsc06968Photo: Unknown climber, thanks!

Port in Pothia, Kalymnos. October 2009.

dsc06922Photo: Miroslav Dobšíček

Convent of Agioi Pantes in Pothia, Kalymnos. October 2009.

dsc06926Photo: Miroslav Dobšíček


The second day off out of two at total I spent at sofa reading Milan Kundera‘s Ĺ˝ert (The Joke) from cover to cover. I liked the book very much. It is quite similar in many aspects to his other novel Nesnesitelná lehkost bytĂ­ (The Unbearable Lightness of Being). Existentialism without a message …, wonderful.

Ready For Climbing Trip October 12, 2009

Posted by Elfi in Climbing.
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This year’s climbing trip will take me to Kalymnos in Greece again. It is such a cool place so that we have decided with my wife Hanka to go there once more. Last year we were there together with Jan Machek, Weine Hallberg and Kjell Zackrisson. Compared to that it will be a solo trip this year since Kjell was invited to El Chorro in Spain and Jan with Weine hope for climbing in Turkey somewhat later on.

Spindeln i nätet 6b, Korpaberget, Sweden. September 2009.

korpaberget-spindeln-i-natet Photo: Jan Machek

The goal for me is to enter the grade 7a. In particular, I am looking forward to climb routes called DNA and Fouska. I’ve already tried Fouska once. At that time it took a while to get down while unable to reach the anchor 🙂 . Let us see how I manage this year.

Training in Klätterfabriken. April 2009.

Video: Václav Drda

I am ready.