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Better … January 14, 2010

Posted by Elfi in Climbing.

Whenever I do not train and climb for about two weeks I feel like all my strength is gone and it will take weeks to get it back. This feels even more true when I am literally, all day long, forced to sit in a sofa, eat and chat with my family, e.g. during Christmas holidays. Chatting is fine, but sofa leads to back pain in fast downward spirals in my case.

Luckily, things are always better than they seem. I arrived back to Sweden with only +1kg of body weight, which I guess is fine during these cold days, and in order to get rid of back pain I stretched for five days in a row, did some biking and running. Over the top of that I had two bouldering sessions in Klätterfabriken which made me happy.

A must rule during these forced off-days is to never allow thoughts along the lines of “After this, I will have to start almost from scratch. Damn it“. It is just not truth and thinking so will give rise to a plateau in your development. Instead, think how to make your first few training sessions nothing but a well motivated fun. Your body and consequently your mind, which are one thing after all, will respond correspondingly. That is well 🙂

In a few days I am going to set goals and prepare a plan for my climbing and training. I am equipped with The self-coached climber and Dave’s 9 out of 10 and there are many advices to explore and try out. The plan is likely going to cover 2-3 months with focus on (single hand) pull-up strength, transversus abdominis muscle and foot work.

I am the kind of guy who prefer to improve in climbing mostly by climbing and I do perform climbing specific training only in order to compensate for not being able to climb every day. What I want add now is more structure, checkpoints and regular antagonist muscle exercises.

Cheers to everyone,

and hats off to Will Gadd for his Endless Ascent. Seeing him determinedly ice climbing through night with his headlamp on sticked to my memory. Awesomely inspiring.



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